That trip resulted in me driving 300 miles up and back from the Bronx (and subsequently paying $11.00 in tolls) and around the Catskills without finding a single hiking trail, although the foliage was nice and I did get to eat lunch by a pleasant stream. As soon as I got home I went online and purchased several guide books to the Catskills, southern New York hiking and some other books, so as to never repeat that particular experience again.
So this time, armed with a number of maps, guide books, more careful preparation and more equipment, I woke up around 7 and hustled off to the Catskills for my first successful out of the city adventure. Everything had been prepared the night before, from my bagel sandwich to my pile of winter and rain clothes, so I was out the door by eight and driving up I-87 by nine. Now, in my non-east coast experience, Interstates are massive federally run freeways that allow the general public the freedom to move around this fabulous country of ours. On the East coast, this is untrue. Roads coast money, apparently more money in the East than in the West (reasonably this might be due to the snow or rain or whatnot) and you have to cover it when you drive on them ... this is what I thought taxes and all that extra national security money was for.

and getting on the right trail, the Cornell-Wittenberg-Slide trail, around 11ish. This trail is named for the three peaks it passes over, and I am figuring it and the extra Giant path loop that will bring me back to the parking lot are about 10 miles around. Its a beautiful day up here, red and yellow leaves scattered all over the ground, crisp and clean air, with wide blue skies and a nice light wind.

I hustle a bit to warm up and find myself passing a number of folks, and I get a hint of pride in my fitness and hiking ability. "I love how good at this I am" I think to myself ... and then stop in astonishment as the trail vanishes. I stand around like an idiot for a while until the people I pass pass me again and I notice all the tiny little trail markers, literally the only sign that the route I am on is a trail. Within the next half mile the trail becomes simply a sea of leaves, then a pond, then a rivulet, then a pile of rocks, but at no point does it resemble a trail.

Hiking here requires a bit more alertness than I am used to, like playing a game of treasure hunt except that the reward is that you don't get lost and freeze to death. So I continued apace, chatting my way up the trail. After meeting a large number of concerned Northeasterners, all of whom were friendly, helpful, convinced that this was a great first hike in the Catskills and concerned for my life, I finally had to start being a bit brusque and just nodding hello as I passed, otherwise I was never going to get anywhere. Admittedly, i was also tired of explaining that I was from California and an experienced hiker, as most people that saw me assumed I was 1) a lunatic or someone lacking a lower nervous system and 2) going to die out here because I obviously did not know what I was about. Telling them I was from the Golden State explained most it, as I have mentioned before, we in the Golden State are widely considered to be another, fully insane, form of life.
An hour later its truly cold. At around 3500 feet, not even really elevation by California standards, its freezing. Literally, there are icicles hanging from the rocks



It actually made for an incredible climb up, super fun and really rather strenuous, at least at the speed I was trying to move at. When I finally made it to the top of Wittenberg, the first of the three "mountains" I was climbing, as they were all under 4200' but were still serious elevation gain. They view was spectacular, actually the best I was going to get all day, taking in a lot of southern New York, with a beautiful view of the south-eastern Catskills surrounding
the Ashsokan reservoir.Wonderful.

They next 5 miles were fabulous, empty and really tough. I was never again privy to such wonderful views, although views off the backsides of Mt. Cornell and Slide mountain did provide excellent views of Wittenberg and then Cornell, as well as the rest of the Slide Mountain Wilderness, up toward the center of the Catskills. The trail was very rough, climbing over rock piles and across small rivers, down through snow-covered trees and along several icy, rock ledges and generally up, over and across things that had no right to be called trails.

Exhilarating. I loved it. From Wittenberg I went down 600 feet, then back up 600 feet to Cornells summit. This ascent was very windy and the climb was hard because my fingers were so cold, but by the time I got to the top the climb had warmed me. Then back down 700 feet, eating lunch on the way, and up 900 more to the top of slide mountain. Slide was cold and snowy and required the most climbing, but there were some ladders for the most hard-core sections.


I actually got lost and had to ford two large streams to end up in the private parking lot of a private resort on Lake Winnisook.

I moved quickly across the giant ledge trail, at least until the sun started to set, when the fading light illuminated the forest in such a way that it looked like the trees were on fire.


Great day.
To see all the pictures of this hike, go to http://www.flickr.com/photos/pjgaskill/sets/72157594339649015/
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